The history of the bra is obscured by urban myths. There are considerable differences of opinion as to who actually invented the bra. Bra-like devices were around in mid 1800’s. Although recognizably bras, these devices looked uncomfortable by today’s standards. Later in the century, supporters or corset substitutes were patented. The brassiere was at first an alternative to the corset, for at-home wear, or was worn by those women who had medical issues with corsets.
After the straight-fronted corset became fashionable, a brassiere or “bust supporter” became a necessity for full-busted women, as the straight-fronted corset did not offer as much support and containment. Early brassieres were either wrap-around bodices or boned, close-fitting camisoles worn over the corset. They were designed to hold the bust in and down against the corset, which provided upward support. Advertising of the times, typically in periodicals, stressed the advantages of bras in health and comfort over corsets, and portrayed garments with shoulder supports, in a mono-bosom style and with limited adaptability. Their major appeal was to those for whom lung function and mobility were priorities, rather than outer appearance.
It has been said that the bra took off the way it did in large part because of World War I, which shook up gender roles, putting many women to work in factories and uniforms for the first time. The war also influenced social attitudes towards women and helped to liberate them from corsets. Women were already moving into the retail and clerical sectors, and the bra came out of something discreetly tucked into the back pages of women’s magazines to prominent display in department stores such as Sears, Roebuck and Montgomery Ward. Advertising was now promoting the shaping of the bust to contemporary fashion demands, and sales reflected this.
As the corset became shorter, it provided less support to the bust until the corset started at the waist and bust containment yielded entirely to the bra. A low, sloping bust-line became more fashionable, and the modern ‘supportive’ uplifting bra was eventually born. The major changes in design were the appearance of distinct cups, backless bras, and under-wiring, and newer fabrics such as rayon, tricot, etc. These fashion changes coincided with health professionals beginning to link breast care and comfort to motherhood and lactation.
The word ‘brassiere’ became shortened to ‘bra’. The bra was becoming more sophisticated, and home-sewn versions vanished. Warners developed the ‘Alphabet Bra’ made in a series of sizes corresponding to the letters of the alphabet… and so women started taking an interest in the size of their and other women’s breasts. Bras rapidly became a major industry with improvements in fiber technology, fabrics, colours, patterns, and options, and did much better than the retail industry in general. Innovations included Warners’ use of elastic, the adjustable strap, the sized cup, and padded bras for smaller-breasted women.
In the US, production moved outside of New York and Chicago, and advertising started to exploit Hollywood glamour and become more specialized. Department stores developed fitting areas, and customers, stores and manufacturers all benefited. Manufacturers even arranged fitting training courses for saleswomen. International sales started to form an increasing part of the U.S. bra manufacturer’s market. Prices started to make bras available to a wider market, and home-made competition dwindled. The Second World War had a major impact on clothing. Military women of lower rank were fitted with uniform underwear. Advertising appealed to both patriotism and the concept that bras and girdles were somehow ‘protection’. Dress codes appeared – for example, Lockheed informed their workers that bras must be worn because of ‘good taste, anatomical support, and morale’. A new image was the Sweater Girl, a busty and wholesome ‘girl next door’ with tight fitting outer-garments that accentuated her artificially enhanced curves, while under and outer wires appeared. Sweater Girls often wore bullet bras. The image portrayed by actresses like Jane Russell of the “lift and separate” design went on to influence the development of later brassieres.
Following the Second World War, material availability, production and marketing, and demand slowly recovered. A postwar baby boom created a demand for maternity and nursing bras, and television provided new promotional opportunities. A reviving postwar economy fueled demands for consumer goods with greater variety. Manufacturers met this with new fabrics, colors, patterns, and styles. Padding and elasticity were among other innovations. Hollywood glamour became an increasingly powerful influence in fashion. Changes in retailing also saw a reduction in custom fitting by professionals.
Today women, health professionals, feminists and fashion writers appear to be increasingly questioning its place and function, and asking whether it will go the way of pantyhose, garter belts and stockings. It is now commonplace to see models and other celebrities who do not wear bras in public while many outer garments like sundresses and formal evening wear are designed to be worn without bras. Nevertheless it remains a popular item at least amongst Western women.
